 |
| |
| |
PVC Nozzle Selector Modification
by Aqua Flash
07/03/08
Right, before going any further with this, I'm going to say a few things. This modification, while being very benefical, varies and all depends on one thing, availability. For those who don't know, the PVC required for this isn't easy to get if you are in the UK, and if you can find this in the UK, then it isn't cheap and may not give you as good results. The PVC materials used here are from the USA (which if you are in the USA you'll have no problem getting as it is in pretty much every hardware store), which means that they differ from what you get in the UK. If you want to get these parts, then I suggest looking on eBay, I got mine from there, which enabled me to do this. Is it good? Read on and find out.
However, if you don't want to go through the trouble of this, then for UK fans I strongly recommend you look at my Brass Nozzle Selector Modification instead, which is accessible in the UK for parts.
Now, the story. I never thought I'd end up doing this modification on a CPS 1700, however the performance it gave probably from the condition it was in meant it needed work. I K Modded it with 10 balloons, and decided like said since I had the materials now to do a PVC Nozzle Selector Modification. So, lets get to it.
What you need:
3/4" threaded endcaps
3/4" male adaptor (3/4" female end to 3/4" male threaded end)
O Rings
Saw
Electrical Tape
File
Sandpaper
Silicone Gel
Drill bits
Hole drill piece (optional)
Firstly, screw off the original nozzle selector from the soaker, you should end up with this.
Be sure to keep the o ring on the inside, and the selector itself with the peices that go with it, always good for the future just incase. Since I have other 1500/1700's then it may come in handy one day. Now you need to saw off all the orange pieces left, be very careful not take off the mesh screen, I accidentally got to it, however if you have, don't worry, when the selector is on it should stay there. You should get something like this.
File and sand the rough areas until it is straight enough. After doing this then you need to get the 3/4" male adaptor. Before putting it over the nozzle tubing remember to put an o ring on the inside.
Now, before you put the adpator over the nozzle tubing, wrap electrical tape around the nozzle tubing to create a good seal along with the o ring in the adaptor which will stop water leaking. After all, the water comes out at quite a force and having it blow off is useless. You should get something like this.
Now because of this, while you have finished here with pretty much with most of the new nozzle done, there are still a few things to do. Because of how this is done, the front won't fit into the casing. File off the bits of plastic that gets in the way until the new nozzle fits in. Keep doing it bit by bit, not too much, as it still needs some plastic to rest on to keep it stable. Also, put an o ring on the threaded part of the endcap, as this means when the endcaps used as nozzles screw in, no water leaks out when fired. To make it less stiff when screwing the nozzles on, put some silicone gel on the o ring. You sould end up with something like this.
You are pretty much finished. To make it look better cosmetically, as now it looks rather open at the front since the big orange piece has gone, my Dad found what looks like a top from a jar which we drilled a hole through the middle of with a hole drill so it went through the nozzle selector piece, and it made a great fit, making the soaker look way better. This is optional however and will differ from person to person with what they have and whether they want to do this. I just wanted it to look nice, and this finished off the effort made to improve the soaker nicely.
Now, to make the nozzles, get your 3/4" endcaps and start drilling. I drilled mine based on the original two sizes the 1700 had of 5x and 10x by putting the drill bits through the nozzle holes and determining the size. I also did another nozzle size of how large it was when the original nozzle selector is screwed off. The drill bits and nozzle sizes may vary again from person to person depending on their preference and style. However my sizes are as follows which will be tested further down:
1 (Smallest)
2 (Medium)
3 (Largest)
There, the finished soaker, and a good old PVC nozzle modification.
Now, some shot images.
Nozzle 1 (Smallest) 7x
Nozzle 2 (Bigger) 10x
Nozzle 3 (Medium) 12x
Nozzle 4 (Large) 14x
Nozzle 5 (Largest) 17x
Now for the statistics. Please bear in mind that the soaker has been K Modded with 10 balloons as well.
Stats
|
|
|
|
| Firing Chamber Volume
| 820mL - 28.9oz
|
|
|
| Range
| Level
| 45 Degrees
| Output/sec
| Shot Time
|
|
|
|
|
| 1 (Smallest)
| 8m - 26.4'
| 12.5m - 41.25'
| 190mL - 6.7oz
| 4.3 Seconds
| 2 (Bigger)
| 8.5m - 28.05'
| 12.5m - 41.25'
| 273mL - 9.6oz
| 3.0 Seconds
| 3 (Medium)
| 8m - 26.4'
| 12m - 39.6'
| 341mL - 12oz
| 2.4 Seconds
| 4 (Large)
| 8.5m - 28.05'
| 13m - 42.9'
| 389mL - 13.7oz
| 2.1 Seconds
| 5 (Largest)
| 9m - 29.7'
| 13.5m - 44.55'
| 483mL - 17oz
| 1.7 Seconds
|
|
|
|
|
| Pumps
| 24
|
|
|
|
Overall, the PVC modification wored great, and I would recommend it over the brass modification if you can. While the range may not be as high as on the results of the brass modification, remember that the 1700 this was performed on wasn't in the best condition, and that the soakers used are totally different because of the size of their rubber pressure chambers. You get some great streams if done right that really do have power to them.
Back to Modifications
Back to Home
|
|
|
| 
|
|
.